Phichit 1: Family Bash marks nephew's rite of passage

Came up with Mei (+ kids) to join the extended family at the house in Phichit, which is a 4 hour drive north of bangkok. The main house here has been built in recent years, mostly from the profits of the family's rice business. Mei's sister, Na, lives across the street (incidently next door to her ex's parents). Her son is turning 21 and will spend a week in a monastery before heading back to university in chiang mai. with all the fuss, though, you'd think he'd spend at least a month or two... but it's clearly an Event, nonetheless!

This morning, he had his hair shaved by a monk. Family and friends gathered... everyone gets a chance to snip his hair (even me!), which looks quite funny before the monk finally takes a straight razor to it...

In this case, there's a full brass band that's been playing for hours over loudspeakers set up... it sounds a little bit like a new orleans band... not surpising to have elements of jazz and dixie - the king of thailand is an accomplished saxophone player himself - i actually bought a CD of his compositions, where such styles appear frequently.

When the band isn't playing, there is an MC that finds plenty to say - and thai music is played in the background, punctuated by howling ... and then stretches of thai music (some quite pleasant, some quite jarring) it's a real trip, the whole thing... some of the men have already started drinking whiskey... and it's not noon yet!

Meanwhile, there's a large stage being constructed in front of the house - where there will be live entertainment until midnight... then a general mish mash, all to thai music blaring out of speakers, indefinitely...

headed to the temple soon...not sure for what, but i'll find out. planned to steal away on a bike for a while to take photos by the river (this area is really well suited land for agriculture)... dad took me on a fantastic bike ride yesterday, so i want to retrace my steps...

The skinny on Tenasserim...

Photo: reforested test site, after 13 years

This is a neat project that i am lucky enough to see in the structuring stages... it is still unclear whether it is profitable enough for investors to take note - but it is an innovative twist on the "payment for ecosystem conservation" model...

The "tenasserim" region is 1 of 5 reforestation projects in the Greater Mekong Subregion that is partially financed by the asian development bank, and looking for the rest of the financing though private investors, rather than a loan (which is where my dad's little web of finance people would come in).

Private investors have been successful in joining forces with public sector projects in the clean energy sector - where they can rely on profits from energy being sold to the grid as well as carbon credits (sold on the compliance market). However, in this case, the investors would make make their money primarily by selling carbon credits on the voluntary market (about $2 per credit, which equals 1 tonne of CO2). so it's still questionable whether this co-financing model will work for reforestation alone...

The tenasserim corridor itself is divided into 5 sections, 2 of which were mobilized 1 year ago (the northern and southermost sites). Each section contains 5 towns. We went to the southernmost one in Ratchaburi (2 hours drive).

Tenasserim is a corridor of jungle southeast of bangkok that has patchy deforestation, ranging from 20-80% deforested. The more continuous the forest, the better it is for wildlife.

This area, about 400 m above sea level, subsists mostly through pineapple plantations. The Dept. of National Parks (which has done very impressive land surveying) set the villages with a nursery and seedlings (provided by the Royal Project, which focuses on sustainable ), which the townspeople grew and planted in around 200 hectares of forest.

Photo: one of the 600 semi-permanent dams built to help maximize the use of rainwater

There is about 10,000 left to be planted throughout the corridor - 5,000 of which is up to 80% deforested, and 5,000 of which is less than 20% deforested. If it takes another US$10 million (on top of $3 mil. already gotten from the ADB and the thai govt.) to implement the reforestation plans, are the profits from carbon credits enough to entice private investors to put up that $10 mil?

Other factors in the carbon calculation: 12 tree species being planted; young trees (first 10 years) sequester more CO2 than old trees; about 150 seedlings were planted per "rai" (6.25 rai per hectare; 2.5 acres in a hectare) - CO2 analysis costs $US 30k a pop; after 10 years, credits are worth more because the risk goes down... so when to sell the credits could make a difference...

While townspeople here have not been paid for the replanting, there is funding allotted for each village (about 200,000 baht per village, which roughly translates to US$ 5,700) to stimulate the development of sustainable businesses from which they can profit - such as growing mushrooms in the forest, ecotourism, or using the nurseries for other plants after the reforestation seedlings are planted (we talked with local women, and they are most interested in growing orchids).

photo: local women involved in the nursery activities...

Photo: seed bags at a nursery

The villages won't necessarily see much of the funds from the carbon credits directly, but they will have access to more advanced funds, training programs (including schoolkids, who are also taught about seed gathering and sustainable growing practices), and incentives for building their own sustainable businesses. That is, after the banks are paid, and the investors make their profits...

In any case, the trip was really interesting. Two of our "guides" were women (Kantinan and Rungnapar) from the Dept. of National Parks. They were both pretty hardcore - Rungnapar is a bamboo expert (There are 80 kinds of bamboo in thailand, and they only shed seeds before they die). Both described their days at the University in the Forestry program - every student is required to run 12 km a day for six months out of the year (for 3 years)... They also have some pretty good camping recommendations that i will have to follow up someday...

Photo: village firetruck, stopped outside where we had lunch

Photo: Rungnapar w/ the tree she planted a year ago...

BKK: shoes, guitars, food, metros, etc

I needed better shoes for my trip to Tenasserim - essentially sneakers that would look decent with business casual clothes, but nothing too flashy - so i hit up the Central World plaza (formerly called the world trade center), by Siam Center on the skytrain (BTS), bankok's crux of international fashion, electronics, and hotels.

(photo: intersection from skywalk by chitlom station)

Central World alone is like several NY city blocks of boutiques and specialty stores stacked onto six floors, with a glass exo-structure that gives climate controlled cafe's an outdoor feel. combed the stores over several hours and found that the Sketchers store had just the shoes...super comfy (for next-day wear) and cute (to match my slacks).

(photo: bldg by NaNa BTS station, near where i've been staying)

i have yet to go to Pratunam, which is the equivalent of the garment district - it's supposed to have everything, and cheap - i like deals, but it's tricky to find things that fit me, so that's often a limiting (and frustrating) factor.

Central World has 3 guitar stores - one of which had the most gorgeous blue steel guitar for 15k baht ($400) that i tried out. not bad for a steel guitar (developed in the 1920's, but eclipsed by the advent of electric guitars thereafter) - they make even my fly-by-night playing sound amazing...

Well, i really don't deserve such a piece yet, so i continued my search for a cheap, but decent guitar elsewhere...which led me onto an adventure on the underground metro (MRT). i checked out a store at Fortune Town, but they were also way overpriced (even the used ones)...

For guitars, i've heard Chinatown has a cluster of stores with the best deals (arguably lesser quality, but there's got to be something i like there). actually, i made it to the right MRT station, Hua Lamphong station, end of the line - but when i got out, i didn't have good directions - i walked around some little streets, but didn't find it, and then didn't want to be taken by a tuk-tuk driver, so decided i would come back with a map, or at least a better idea where i was going. got it now, so next week, i suppose...

(photo: just when u get into Siam Paragon - couldn't resist - a McCafe...)

Siam Paragon, which neighbors Central World, has THE best food court (a floor up from the McCafe). It actually has little restaurants all clustered around - we had great japanese ...other interesting food joints: the Japanese "Mos Burger" and "Mr. Taco" ... fascinating. Paragon also has a gourmet market, with treats from the Royal Project...

The Royal Project is essentially a government program in agriculture that emphasizes diversity and cooperative set-ups for farmers all over the country. It now includes several processing facilities - so we got gourmet carrot chips and pumpkin chips... and these divine little dried mango puree pancakes... kind of like seriously wonderful fruit leather patties. There's all sorts of yummies, and it's basically "fair trade" stuff.

okay, gotta run... more on the Tenasserim project soon...

Sun vs. Lemongrass + Tiffy

Even the most die-hard durian fans agree - it smells like hell. i'm actually a fan of durian, though - a rich custardy "fruit" that tastes nothing like its smells - which just fascinates me. So when Mei bought me some today, and it stunk up the whole car - it's a tough call - roll down the windows and breathe in exhaust fumes, or keep them up and risk durian asphyxiation... even 2-year-old Simon wrinked up his nose and blamed the smell on Dad ("Papa, Ba!")

The Rat Affair
So there are two kittens (and the mama cat) by this little playground down the way, and i stopped to play with them on a morning jog (they're quite tame and playful). This kid walks up to me and thrusts his hand out, cradling a live little rat in a tissue. It was rather cute, and i thought, hey, lots of people have pet rats - i smiled, but shook my head - no, i'm good, thanks. He continued to gesture, as if to say, go ahead, it's okay... and it was quite tame, and here's where you're thinking, she's not really going to take it is she, but yes, i let the kid drop the tissue-clad mouse in my hands.

The kid stood there smiling and as i peered at the little guy, i was like okay, he's tame enough, but i'm not going to push it, and as i go to hand him back, the kid shakes his head and motions towards the cats... wait a second!

That's right, this little rat was not a pet at all... the look on my face must have been priceless - as i swiftly unloaded the cute little rodent back into the hands of the kid, saying no no no no no no no... both laughing at the expense of my utter naivete... there was just no way i could feed this live little guy - no matter how stunned he was - to these kitties - no matter how cute they were...

Sun-smacked,
Despite Bangkok's allure, i was eager to get a little sun, now that i was on the coast. so perhaps i skimped a little on the sunscreen when i decided to hunt for some beach glass at the water's edge. Sophia was along, and soon became engrossed in gathering "pterodactyl" shells (no idea, but they're pretty and shiny)... well, we dawdled along the beach for clearly way too long... and my red self collapsed into bed for a nap... only to wake up with the worst fever and headache...

Mei brewed up some Lemongrass tea was to cool me from the inside out (as opposed to chili peppers, which heat you up) - and two "Tiffy" tablets - this thai painkiller actually contains 500 mg of paracetamol.

Yes, it worked. throbbing headache gone before i got to bed. And two more Tiffies before bed - i slept 8 hours straight - possibly the first time since i got here!

Speaking of which, 3 AM. undoubtedly full day tomorrow, to BKK tuesday...

3 Days in BKK: A Toe in the Green

I really loved being in Bangkok. The food is great - actually, we went to this italian place that oven-fired thin crust pizza - and they do it really well. plus fresh "rocket" salad (that's what arugula is called here!), yummy buffalo mozzarella ... did i mention, yum?

We stayed off of Sukhumvit Rd (at soi 10)... the thoroughfare above which the BTS runs...I love the SKY TRAIN (BTS)! the train is clean, fast, cool... there is an underground that intersects, and i must admit i've never been on it... there's usually enough to entertain us using this infrastructure (or a short motorbike ride away)... i suppose if i spent more time in BKK, i'd venture further... i didn't really go out much this round, both trying to get some reading done at night, and other than dad and mei, i don't know anybody in BKK! not that i can't go out by myself, but just haven't really been in the mood to be that brand of social...

Thai Reforestation Site Visit Replaces Laos Trip
So i did end up getting the Visas (my first official stamp on my new Uruguayan passport!) - but turns out that visit coincides with a site visit to a special project i've been studying up on. Through carbon emissions trading, this project will enable the thai government to fund their reforestation with investment money instead of a traditional loan. cutting edge stuff!!! Dad introduced me to the project lead today (he was out for the monks blessing) - and i was relieved to be well-received, and conversant enough not to look stupid. So this mission to gather specifics (costs, resources, etc) could be the most seamless integration into my first project that i could ask for... guess it was worth the wait. And that visa to Laos is good through mid april...

Alright, one little gripe: the sidewalks. Seriously ...

Vendors: either they're being taken up by vendors (food, clothes, stuff) - people have to walk in single file to squeeze by (barely, at that)... or you're forced on the street, at the mercy of crazy drivers and motorbikes (which are so fun to ride, but a little scary, the way they weave through traffic - but the breeze is awesome).

Now, every once in a while, there's a crackdown to clear the sidewalks, but really, that's their livelihood, so they end up losing revenue, have to pay some fine/permit - and two days later they're back on the street... so really, what's the point?

Cracks, the loose tiles, the dirty puddles, the ditches, and the holes you could lose a poodle to... between weaving through people and vendors, you gotta make sure your next step is on secure ground... and forget wearing high heels, pain is inevitable...

And now, a coastal interlude...
we got back to the coast this afternoon, where we'll be until we head back to BKK next tuesday. not much planned for the weekend, but doesn't mean it won't be busy. There's a fishing port and village about a mile up that i was hoping i could check out to take some cool photos...

Monks Bless the New Office

Everyday Thai Life: 8 Days in Sattahip

I'm not entirely sure how the time went by so fast... up until 2 days ago, i maintained a low profile at the pattaya flat.

photo 1: view left (east)

Overall, the pattaya place is really lovely, and i've truly enjoyed the experience. One could say i've been inspired to take up a bit of "monastic rigours" - I've cut out television entirely, sweets are limited to fruits (and a little jam), and junk food is also out. And i've tried to get exercise every day. Admittedly, it is indeed a bit easier when the cooking, cleaning, and laundry is taken care of ;)

Digging into the eco-realm has been painstakingly slow... and patience is not necessarily my best virtue. Still, I've been doing my best to prove myself helpful and reliable to my father, which at this point involves a fair amount of energy towards the family. I've been trying to play it cool...

Is it possible to be Relaxed-Out?

Meanwhile, "relaxing" is not so easy when i'm itching to be getting my feet wet in the world of sustainable development... even though i've been reading up on the projects, i've also found myself dropped into these thai people's lives... and there's been more than a few instances of...tension.

Chilis from the 9th realm of Hell...

Like the (very good natured) cook making things WAY too spicy. At home, i am a champion of spice - but here, there is no doubt that i am a wimp. I said i like spicy, but this was crazy. Dad and Mei were actually gone for most of the week, so sophia was my only translator, and she was in school...

Each meal, i'd wildly gesture for "nit noi phet" - a little bit LESS spicy, please - and she'd laugh and nod... but i swear, the next dish was not a wit less spicy than the last. Or maybe it was, and my taste buds were still staggering to recover from the last gunfight...

Thai school seems to lack inspiration...

Speaking of sophia and school - this 8-year-old certainly provided a less than stellar picture of the average thai education. A lack of emphasis on reasoning skills indicates a pervasive attitude that complacency is a generally preferable trait (heck, all authorities have more power if no one bucks the boat)... seems to me, sophia lags behind the average 8 year old in math, isn't exposed to kiddie lit above a kindergarten level...and doesn't seem to be the least bit inspired to learn...Or maybe she's just 8... maybe a city school would be more competitive and inspiring... i dunno... distressing indeed...

Another source of tension: shopping.

Shopping here could be equally considered both a sport as well as an addiction. And it is definitely a favorite Thai family pastime. Everywhere you turn, you're subject to new, bigger-than-the-last malls, huge outlets, outdoor markets with countless vendors, a plethora of supermarkets... from super cheap to unfathomably expensive, this place is a shopper's dream. The trips are a bit stressful, though, when you're not really keen on buying things...and mei and sophia are total purchase-pushers!

In support of the next generation of agriculturalists...

Ahighlight of this last weekend was going to the re-opening of the agricultural college across the street. Schoolkids performed regional thai dances, we bought some plants and seeds (which sophia planted in little empty yoghurt containers)... and these gummy rice sweets... we couldn't get enough of it! all sorts of flavors (including durian, which was quite yummy)...

photo 4: Rice sweets being mixed...this one was green, though i don't know the flavor...

Aside from my sweetheart, my cat, and my friends, I do miss Heroes (and Thailand does not allow streaming video online), and what i truly miss is good coffee.

Down with the Instant...

The crystals...can't express their god-awfulness. and i just don't get it - some of the best coffee comes from Asia. and the creamer - just deepens the travesty... getting a nonfat vanilla cappuccino from starbucks on the roadstop up to BKK on tuesday came damned near finding a stash of lost jazz records for me...

Back to Bangkok: Auspicious Timing for my Introduction to The Office

Dad, Mei, and I came to BKK because his new office was getting blessed by the monks. A unique experience...i'll post some photos in a subsequent post(still in my camera).

Got to finally see the office and meet key team members. They're quite friendly and welcoming, which is a good start. Getting more acquainted with a spread of projects illustrating the effectiveness of free market. why rely only on regulations, most of which limit human activity by nature? of course, the financing is anything but simple - funding comes from a variety of sources, the government incentives being the most complex to decipher (seriously, those reports are verbose, at best). I continue to find the carbon currency phenomenon fascinating, and present in every project, one way or another.

Anyway, it's way past midnight here - so in closing...

Headed for the Lao embassy to get Visas... for a few days somewhere around Feb. 18 to accompany Dad (a mining deal). Trekked to the other side of town this afternoon, only to find the embassy had closed early, since it was not busy... of course!

Weekend 1: Living up to Bizarre Foods

Mei (my dad's lovely thai wife) has been really fun - the last time i came, she was pregnant w/ simon (who is crazy adorable!)... she took me for a beer on the beach upon arrival... Mei's admiration of Obama's best qualities only confirms his the reach of his appeal .

Smart, educated, polite, and the cherry: "...he's sexy too!" - Mei's words!

Saturday led to a shopping trip into Pattaya with Mei and Sophia - the highlight of which was a local Thurs-Sun market. Pattaya is about 15 km from my the family flat (which incidently overlooks a nice beach, pool, and garden).

I looked on my left, and there they were: fried worms, grasshoppers, and frogs - just like on Andrew Zimmern's travel channel show, Bizarre Foods. I'd seen the grasshoppers before, but never could bring myself to try them... but on my 8th trip to thailand, i figured it was high time... Mei was totally amused - handing me a fresh sample from the baskets before us...

(didn't have camera at the market, so this is from the bags we brought home...)

Incidently, a bagful of any of these costs about 25 baht - less than a dollar. They all had a pleasant barbeque flavor, but the texture differed: Mei started me out with the thin white worms were also rather light and crispy - not so tough.

Now, the short and fat ones (the silkworms) were a little more difficult to swallow; they were quite chewy and bitter - not sure there's any price at which i'd eat those again! The frogs were like beef jerky, not too bad - best go for the little ones, though; and finally, the grasshoppers - i hesitated here - wasn't sure how that would go down - you end up tearing off the back legs (pretty sharp and saw-like), but you do eat the head... so i just closed my eyes for that one. Turns out, they are rather crispy, but - the bits stick in your throat a little, which leads me to believe that they're best washed down with a beer.

I think it makes for a creative alternative to the usual bowl of nuts on the bar...

(See? i'm eating them...!)

Thais are funny in that they seem to be eating all the time... so i've already gotten to some of my favorite things: an MK restaurant - where you order plates of raw veggies, noodles, and meats, and they all go into a boiling pot in the middle of the table (on a hot plate) - they give you sauce on the side, plus chopped garlic and green chilies; green mango w/ a chili & salt mixture to dip into; spicy tom yam soup; and clear noodle salad (woon sen, also spicy and limey, w/ ground chicken). Snuck in a sweet roti, too - a thin crepe sweetened by condensed milk... soooo yummy!

Sunday, after a jog and a swim and a nap, we went back into pattaya for bowling. The rest of my time has been spent playing big sister (no small challenge!), learning about Emerald's projects and networks, and still getting used to my 12 hour time change... which means getting up between 4 and 6 AM (starving!), feeling nappy around 2 - 3ish... avoiding the nap, only to crash out again around 10ish...